Punt Tour on theCam

A chauffered tour in a punt on the Cam is can be a wonderful way to spend an hour when you are in Cambridge.

You can take out self-hire punts, and it may be fun, but you miss out on all the information and anecdotes that your guide entertains you with on the way. Plus it probably takes more than a couple of hours tuition to become competent.

Our guide on the Friday after Easter was a recent graduate of Sheffield University, who lives locally, and this had been his summer job since he was sixteen. He was certainly very competent at punting, making it look effortless, and he also knew a lot about Cambridge.
We started by Silver Bridge, and the route to Quayside took us past several colleges, under various bridges. There are some great sights, Kings College chapel, Trinity College Library, designed by Sir Christopher Wren, and gardens stretching down to the river.
The Cam used to be navigated with horses pulling barges from a tow-path, like a canal, which worked well until they got to Cambridge, where there was no tow-path on account of the the colleges owning the land right up to the river, and buildings on both sides near the quayside.  The solution was to lay gravel on the river bed, so that it was shallow enough for the horses to walk on the river bed pulling the barges.

That is how it is that punts are propelled by pushing the pole against the gravel on the river bed. There is always the danger that the pole gets stuck in the gravel. The secret is to let go of the pole, and stay on the boat. I am sure you feel sheepish, but at least you stay dry.  We had the good fortune to see someone do exactly that, and our guide very expertly retrieved the pole for them.

Punts are flat bottomed and very stable, they have blankets in case it gets cold, and umbrellas in case it rains. Thankfully we did not need them. The full ticket price as £16.50 each, but somebody from Scudamores gave us a voucher so it cost the two of us just £26.00.
fter the tour, we went to the nearby Fitzwilliam Museum looking at ancient Assyrian and Egyptian artefacts, and French Impressionists but missed the Chinese Jade that, quite coincidentally was stolen later that night.

Lancaster Castle

There can rarely be an hour or five pounds better spent than the guided tour round Lancaster Castle.
It is a place of superlatives, the oldest prison still in operation, the oldest law courts, oldest prison cells, the records go on and on.  Being a law court, taking pictures was forbidden, not as matter of policy, but as a criminal offence.
We did not see much of the very oldest parts, from the time of King John, as the castle holds a working prison.  It is a small prison, a specialist centre for drug rehabilitation in the northwest, with a good record for low re-offending rates.
The Shire Hall is the jewel in the crown, built in Georgian times to house the civil court, and still in use today.  It is spacious, with rows of benches for competing teams of lawyers, and a large area for the jury to be comfortable during the long trials.  These are arranged in a semi circle and round them is an even wider terrace of seating for all the members of the public.  It is built like a theatre, because court cases were indeed a public spectacle in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries.  When not being used as a court, the hall is used to stage plays and performances on occasions.
The semi circular back wall houses shields for every King of England from Richard I to Queen Elizabeth II. There are also smaller shields for other offices, including the Sheriff of Lancaster right up to the present day. The men and women who hold this office, for one year at time, display their ancestral coat of arms, if they have one, but mostly they need to design their own especially.
The room is light spacious and very pleasant, and we spent some time there being regaled by many interesting facts and anecdotes. I have no idea who the person in the left of three portraits hanging above the judges seats is, only that when I heard he was the second, I wanted to ask but never found a suitable moment - who was the first person to grow a pineapple in England?
The criminal court was a different affair, built in the older part of the castle, but with an impressive set of oak benches and panelling laying out the court room.  Again there was terraced public seating, but this was in a long hall, and the whole layout was more cramped. At the back of where the jury sat was a small door, through which a chamber pot could be passed, so that there was no need to delay proceedings if one of the jurors was caught short. At the back of the court the branding iron, used to mark the palm of those found guilty was still in place, long after it had ceased to be used.
On the way in to the court we passed through the jurors' waiting room, where they had the choice of the library or Star Trek videos to pass the time.  This is a pleasant Georgian room, made in the site of the much older court room, the very place where the Pendle witch trials of the seventeenth century were held.
The room where the jurors consider their verdict is a circular room, in one of the towers. It faces out of the castle into the public courtyard, and was used for public hangings in the past. It was all arranged so that hangings could take place in the rain without the executioner having to get wet.
We went into another tower, passing through a passage way cut through the ancient three foot walls, and sat in a circular room, and handled the irons used to chain men prisoners on their sixteen day walk to London before being deported to Australia. This particular ancient tower had a Georgian dome at the top, so as to fit in better alongside the Shire Hall.
The tour finished in another circular room in a tower, complete with a curved door, shaped after being made to fit the room by Robert Gillow, the famous furniture maker. Each of the chairs in this room were made by him, with individual faces carved at the top of each seat back.
Much of what we had seen was very impressive, but the tour was equally fascinating on account of the wealth of historical information and anecdotes that we were told along the way.

29 October

The canal runs north of Lancaster through Carnforth, and then touches the village of Capernwray and Borwick before running closer to the M6 again.  I joined the towpath by the Old Hall Farm, in Capernwray, heading towards Borwick, and stopped to read about the aqueduct built in 1797 which takes the canal over the river Keer. Further on the canal divides in two as it is split by an Island. I ran half way along the island, and the turned back.

a pink pig guarded the entrance

You get a much better appreciation of the gradient when you are running than when driving the car.  Old Hall farm is on one side of a ridge, while the road to the caravan park of the same name is just the other side.  After that the road drops down, running close to a row of whitewashed cottages dating from 1697, and over a bridge across a beck, which I reckon is called Swarthbeck, from the name of the house with the Oriel window just by the bridge. The road rises sharply after the bridge, but I could see the board advertising Capernwray House B&B, that comfortable Bed and delicious Breakfast that I had decided to divide with the early morning run.
The thought of heavy half term traffic at Ambleside, and a leaflet advertising the Linton gallery, dissuaded us from our tentative plans to visit Keswick, and we decided to return to Settle, to see the things we had missed the previous day.
We had not gone very far before we made our first stop. The forestry commission have land on the ridge between Capernwray and the Lune valley which is known as Lord's Lot. We did not walk very far but we did  admire the way they had enlisted the support of a pink pig to guard the entrance to the land.
Our next stop was close by as well, being the bridge over the River Lune between Gressingham and Hornby.
We parked the car near the bridge and walked across, enjoying the views up and down the river from the triangular recessed areas above each of the piers. We walked along the path up river a little, and found a stick with some interesting markings on.  On the way back over the bridge we admired the way the water swirled around the piers.
We stopped near another bridge. after missing the turn to Bentham found ourselves on the road to Ingleton but turned back to Bentham at the village of Burton in Lonsdale. After taking a few pictures there, and admiring the trees that seemed to be fir trees that turn yellow in Autumn, we stopped again to admire the view from a high vantage point looking down onto the river in the valley below.   It was very lovely and restful.
Our next stop was Clapham, which we had bypassed the day before. This looked very picturesque with the river running down the middle of the village.  Ann bought some wool in at Beckside Yarns & Crafts, we enjoyed toasted tea cakes at the Croft cafe, and we bought a scarf and blankets from Richard Sexton & Co.

We then drove on to Settle, and I would recommend anyone arriving from the South to drive along the bypass and approach it on the road from the North.  It is very beautiful with cliffs to the left, and the valley to the right, sweeping round in a wide vista in front of you.
We had seen quite a bit of Settle the previous day, and while we enjoyed the exhibition at the Linton gallery, we thought that we might enjoy the next one more.  Whether we will visit Limestone, Sandstone and Millstone remains to be seen, but we travelled onto to Skipton, stopping at Gargrave, where we visited a shop called Dorothy Ward and had lunch at the Swan Inn.

At Hornby we spotted a stick
with some interesting markings

Skipton was populated with sheep, in the same way that Liverpool is populated with penguins. They are dotted around the streets with different decorations. We got to the market just as it was closing, we saw the high street branch of the Skipton Building Society, and were impressed with the public library building.  We left visiting the castle for another day.
Ann spotted the The Coffee Mill, in Otley Street, where they take their tea seriously, and make some seriously good cakes.

Blackwell House

Blackwell House was built in 1900 by M. H. Baillie Scott, as a holiday home for Sir Edward Holt, a Manchester Industrialist and one time Lord Mayor. Baillie Scott was part of the Arts and Crafts Movement, inspired by John Ruskin and William Morris, and the house has a more restful relaxed atmosphere than the busyness of the average Victorian home.

It was acquired by the Lakeland Trust 10 years ago, and has been open to the public since 2001. As well as admiring the quite beautifully restored internal decoration, visitors also get to see craft exhibitions as they are housed in the upstairs rooms. It is located south of Bowness, on the hillside affording wide views of Windermere and the Coniston fells beyond. Visitors to the tea room can either sit inside, or on the terrace, enjoying the views.

The house has a large hall, more like a medieval house, but like all the rooms, there is a an inglenook around the the fireplace, for more intimate gatherings. There is a second area of recessed seating with a superb peacock frieze in the opposite corner, and above the fireplace there is a minstrels' gallery.

There are two other downstairs rooms, a dining room, fairly formal with its wood panelling, but facing west, and with views over Windermere is the drawing room. The walls and ceilings are all patterned, but painted white, and the result is very light and restful. There is a recessed seating area around a window, with views over the lake, and as the other rooms, inglenook seating around the fireplace. There is a shelf, at picture rail height around the room, supported by slim columns. It really is a most restful and peaceful room.

Upstairs there is a bedroom with a dressing room, and one smaller bedroom. This room has some pictures of the time the house was used to re-house a school during the war time. The other upstairs rooms house craft exhibitions. At our visit we saw an exhibition of glass made by James Powell & Sons. There were also sculptures by David Nash.

The exhibition changes each few months, so we can look forward to visiting again next year.

Ness Gardens

Just a couple of pictures, a dragonfly, and the Laburnum arch.

We had a very enjoyable morning, there was plant sale, the weather was wonderful. The gardens were beautiful.

Salt Mills, Saltaire, Shipley & David Hockney

This is a great day out, and http://www.saltsmill.org.uk/ is also a great web site.

Using the M62 and M606 and ring road around Bradford, it is a fairly easy journey from Liverpool.

There are books and exhibits about the mills themselves, which I think are more about cotton than salt, but I rather ignored them.  More than anything else the experience is about David Hockney, who was greatly involved in getting the mills re-opened, and who has many of his works of art exhibited there.  There is  a wide range of styles media and subject matter, and I would expect that most people would find at least something that makes it a worthwhile visit.

On the first floor is a space called "Home" which is something between an exhibition and a shop. It is slightly more kitchen than the rest of the house, a lot of Alessi and Dualit. You can certainly wander round and enjoy the exhibits, there is a great deal of beauty and nicely laid out, ranging from kitchen utensils to designer tables and chairs.  As well as exhibits with extraordinary price tags £3,874 was it for one dining table? there are also lots of small ticket affordable items, so the experience is partly going round a shop, and partly exhibition.

That same fusion of purpose applies to the whole place.  There is no entry fee, you can come to shop, or you can come to visit the art.   The main gallery is not a hallowed display space, with a shop annexed to it.  The books posters and art material you buy are laid out in between all the paintings and pottery you come to admire.

One of Hockneys works we saw most of was produced with the media "felt tip on napkin"  a little motif af a dog is used on the menus the crockery, the bills, and the staff's tee shirts in the Salt Diner, where we enjoyed a very acceptable lunch.    This is one of two eating places within refurbished mill.

Spending time in the book shop was an enjoyable relaxed experience.  Certainly there were shelves, but more  was laid out on tables that were easier to browse and be engaged by. With more space between tables than in an average high street bookshop, the whole experience was more like moving between one exhibit and another.

We left with much more still to see.  Rugs Fabrics early music theatre sets and more. We shall certainly come back another time.  Plus we have a much better appreciation now of Hockney as an artist.

On the way home the skies were dark in the East, and a very vivid blue in the West, darkening before the sunset lit up the sky as we enjoyed the last of the pretty scenery on the outskirts of Bradford before the darkness fell.